Things to do in Dunkirk - As recommended by the locals
On top of its firm place in history, Northern France’s Dunkirk also makes its mark in culture, cuisine, carnival and coastal action. Here’s the locals’ lowdown.
Just across the Channel, Dunkirk is easier to get to than you might think, with a direct car-ferry service from Dover plus easy access to Calais - only 35 minutes away. Thanks to the recent film ‘Dunkirk’, it’s well and truly on the map for short breaks to Northern France yet you’ll find there’s a whole lot more to ‘Dunkirk Spirit’ than this. Take the vibrant Carnaval de Dunkerque for example, an exciting mix of community, culture and cool…
Party like a local at the Dunkirk Carnival: it’s French festival time!
The embodiment of French ‘joie de vivre’, the carnival is the highest-point of the calendar for the locals (or Dunkerquois as they are known). Don’t picture carnival-floats idly inching their way through the crowds: this is an event where the crowd itself becomes the festival, with everyone joining in the high-spirited party atmosphere. Highlights of the festival’s epic January to March duration (yes, you read that right) include the mayoral tradition of throwing herrings from the town hall’s balcony, the huge ‘bals’ or parties that take place all over the local area (dancing crowds of colourfully costumed revellers) and the ‘bandes’, the famous
musical processions, each one taking place on a different day in a different district in the run-up to Ash Wednesday.
What to eat like a local: start by heading to one of Dunkirk’s typical French markets
A visit to France isn’t complete without a trip to the local market, the perfect opportunity to observe the French way of life. Follow the locals carrying the empty paniers (baskets) to the morning markets in Place du Général de Gaulle on Wednesdays and Saturdays, the Rosendael district on Sundays and Malo les Bains on Tuesdays. Natives are not only stocking up on their fresh and healthy local produce but also buying their regional indulgences like the Couque Suisse vanilla-cream pastry and French cheese Fromage de Bergues.
Try local speciality the Doigt de Jean Bart: chocolate fingers will never be the same again!
A taste-tour of Dunkirk isn’t complete without trying this sweet treat - from the shop of the same name. It’s a to-die-for coffee and almond chocolate finger – traditionally bought by locals as desserts or for gifts - taking its inspiration from Dunkirk’s most well-known seafarer and privateer.
Une glace s’il vous plaît! The locals’ verdict on Dunkirk’s best ice-cream? Le Cornet d’Amour
For foodie expertise in scoop-form, join the queue at the Cornet d’Amour, Dunkirk’s institutional ice-cream parlour which has been in town and in the same family since 1896. With 207 flavours in rotation there’s one to tickle every tastebud. For the record, its sublime vanilla is the bestseller, closely followed by ‘chocolat rocher’, a heavenly blend of chocolate, almonds and hazelnuts. Délicieux!
Our pick of the best restaurants in Dunkirk: bon appétit!
Fans of luxury long-lunching and French savoir-faire should head over to the quayside Aux Waterzooï restaurant, exuding mid-century glam with mirrors, marble and a chic gold décor. Try a signature dish like the Flemish fish speciality the Waterzooï or tackle a mountain of local mussels in cream and tarragon.
In the evening, enjoy an apéritif with your toes-in-the-sand at a seasonal beach hang-out like Bikini Bar in Malo-les-Bains. Then, for evening buzz, a down to earth ambience and classic regional dishes, ask for a table at La Cocotte. Locals may recommend its Cocotte Dunkerquoise dish (scallops, shrimps, prawns and leeks in a white wine sauce) and a local blonde like Bière des Zotes.
Quirk in Dunkirk: the Dunkerquois locals reveal some lesser-known features
Check out the eclectic period villas in Malo-les-Bains
On the Digue (promenade) in this cool seaside quartier, look skyward to check out the parade of quirky iconic villas. If your French is up to it, find out more about the architecture on a walking tour with the Greeters Nord association. It’s a free service designed to give visitors a local’s insight into some of the aspects they might otherwise miss, such as the cheerily named and listed ‘Villa des Sourires’ (Villa of Smiles!) and some behind-the-scenes insight into how the movie Dunkirk was made: the set became an ever-changing tourist attraction for the locals, with many of them queuing for the opportunity to be an extra.
For a unique photo opportunity, head to Leffrinckoucke beach
Off the beaten track, the locals’ favourite iconic image has to be the mirrored blockhouse on nearby Leffrinckoucke beach. Here, artist ‘Anonyme’ used shards of broken mirrors to transform this wartime relic into an awe-inspiring and enigmatic work of art. It has become one of the most photographed landmarks on the coast of Northern France.
Join Dunkirk’s locals on a Longe-Côte walk… in the sea!
Now here’s a weekend break idea and outdoor activity with a difference… Invented here and taking Northern France by storm, Longe-Côte is coastal walking but with a twist: it’s not by the sea but IN the sea. Advocate of healthy-body-healthy-mind, likeable local Jean-Paul at Opale Longe-Côte gets you wet-suited and booted before supplying some straightforward guidance and jovial banter! It’s an opportunity to see Dunkirk’s conviviality at play, with huge, friendly groups going out to enjoy this sea-trek together. The hardcore locals sometimes challenge themselves to 14 hour overnight superwalks!
Special places to stay in Dunkirk
Only a few steps from the beach, self-catering apartments Maison Week-end (in one of Dunkirk’s most beautiful streets) cleverly combine simplicity with luxury and add nice touches like leaving a morning baguette and croissant at your door in the morning. Owner Véronique also runs Chambre d’Hôte (B&B) l’Escale Malouine.
For a luxury short break and special place to stay, the Waterzooï’s rooms have the same high-end touches as its restaurant: impeccable!
For more information, get in touch with the tourist board information of Dunkirk
