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An audio-guide from the tourist office will help you appreciate Laon’s 80-plus other historical monuments at your leisure, including the rare 12th-century octagonal Templar chapel in the grounds of the art and archaeological museum.

Yet with history oozing from every chink and corner, it’s easy to forget that much of the appeal of Laon is simply ambling its cobbled streets, especially Rue Châtelaine with its boutiques, antiques and homewares shops, and patisseries – don't miss Amandine, famed for its moreish pavé de Laon (meringue-covered chocolates).

Accommodation here comes small and characterful too the Maison des 3 Rois has just five stylish rooms in a 14th-century building with wooden floors and old beams. 

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