Things to do in Saint-Omer

 

 

Just 40 minutes inland from Calais, the historic Flemish market town of Saint-Omer was for centuries a key staging post between London and Paris. A trading centre for more than 1,000 years, Saint-Omer has a wealth of fascinating architecture as well as an impressive network of canals in the lower town. Nowadays it’s a quintessential market town with a fabulous, vibrant and colourful market which bursts into life each Saturday morning. You’ll find it on the elegant cobbled grand square, Place du Maréchal Foch, in the shadow of the beautiful town hall in which there is a stunning, almost 200 year old, recently re-opened, Italianate theatre. The market spreads into the surrounding streets including rue Louis Martel, nicknamed the ‘rue des gourmets’ thanks to the number of bars, restaurants and cafés that line it. Some of the luscious vegetables you’ll see piled high on the stalls come from the nearby marshes, known to the locals as the Audomarois. 

 

 

It was in the 7th Century that monks began carving channels through the sodden peaty soil of Saint-Omer so it could be cultivated. By the 19th Century a thriving market garden industry was in place. Today, more than 50 vegetable varieties are grown there, with cauliflowers in summer, and endives (chicory) in winter, especially renowned for their high quality. Additionally, the 3,726 hectares Marais Audomarois UNESCO listed biosphere reserve supports more than 400 species of wild plants as well as hundreds of species of birds, fish and wild life including storks and kingfishers. You can visit the fascinating hands-on Maison du Marais visitor centre to find out more. ‘The Heart of the Marais beats here’ goes the slogan, and it’s from the centre’s wooden landing stage that you can board a flat-bottomed electric-powered ‘Bacove’ barge for an enchantingly relaxed guided cruise through the reed and tree-lined wetlands. 

The countryside here offers an undulating landscape of winding lanes and verdant countryside, a mosaic of ponds and watery arteries, dotted with tiny islands, woods and hamlets. It makes for a glorious place to wander on foot, horseback and even by Segway or self-drive hired 2CV!

 

 

The town too is very walkable with magnificent architectural features including a recently restored 17th century Jesuit Chapel, now a wonderful cultural venue. It’s attached to the town’s seemingly ordinary municipal library, head inside to the first floor though and astoundingly you’ll discover an extraordinary wood panelled room filled with ancient books, some of which back to the 7th century. 

Saint-Omer’s majestic centrepiece is the glorious Gothic Cathedral of Notre-Dame built between the 13th and 16th centuries. Take your time to appreciate the towering medieval vaulted ceiling, beautiful stained-glass windows and magnificent artworks including masterpieces by Lebrun and Rubens. There is also an incredible organ, itself a classified monument, created by Thomas and Jean-Jacques Desfontaines in 1717. It is huge and consists of more than 115 pipes of various lengths. One of the most extraordinary treasures here is a beautifully preserved astrological clock which dates to 1558. 

 

There are lots of delicious restaurants in Saint-Omer and just a stone’s throw from the Cathedral you’ll find Chez Tante Fauvette, an authentic estaminet, a traditional Flemish café, and the smallest restaurant in Saint Omer. You’ll be served a warm welcome and a menu of traditional dishes made from fresh local products such as tangy tartelette Audomaroise and chicken with a piquant creamy local Maroilles cheese sauce. Here they feed you like you’re family and booking in advance is recommended.