In Amiens, between Paris and Lille, exploring Les Hortillonnages - a series of gorgeous islands separated by canals, makes for a very different French experience.
Relax among the greenery
As you leave the city behind and immerse yourself in nature, contemplate the area in Roman times, when the marshland of Les Hortillonnages were transformed into market gardens. Drift along the waterways in a traditional barque a cornet (a flat boat with raised ends) or stroll hand-in-hand among the islands now used them for gardening, fishing, or simply as a place to relax by over 1,000 different owners.
While you explore, you’ll probably see some of the many species of birds which make Les Hortillonnages their home, including mute swans, crested grebes and moorhens. And in the summer, marvel at the banks and gardens which come alive with flowers and reeds, and the beauty of the water lilies and water primrose in the canals and ponds.
Eat from floating gardens
Discover the Saturday market in Saint-Leu where the 10 market gardeners still working in the Les Hortillonnages now sell their produce. And if you are visiting in June, don’t miss the marché traditionnel sur l’eau (traditional market on the water), when the gardeners arrive by boat in traditional dress to sell vegetables from the boats at the side of the quay as they would have done in times gone by. During the rest of the year, look out for vegetables grown in Les Hortillonnages in the town’s supermarkets and markets* labelled “Les t’cho legumes des hortillons” or enjoy a meal at one of the city’ restaurants which serve vegetables from Les Hortillonnages.
A restful place
Revel in the tranquillity as you stroll around the tow paths or drift along the waterways. Only boats with very low-powered motors are permitted along the network of canals and the building of houses is forbidden, so everything is calm. Apart from the plots on the edge of the 300 hectares, there isn’t even electricity here – it’s almost like stepping back in time.
Take a boat trip, or if you’d prefer more privacy as a couple and to take things at your own pace, you can rent a boat, kayak or canoe, or follow a 13.5 km walking trail.
Quiet nights
For couples looking for a restful break truly away from it all, the rustic cabins set in a quirky garden at Ch'Canard are perfect. Each cabin comes with bikes and a rowing boat so you can enjoy the shops and restaurants of the city when the mood takes you – or simply relax in your own tranquil idyll. Alternatively you could choose Comme une Parenthèse – three self-catering cottages set around a garden and courtyard. From either place you can quietly stroll, cycle or row, perhaps stopping for a drink at one of the restaurants and cafés along the towpath overlooking the water now and then – or take a picnic and find your own private spot. Make the most of every minute.
