We discover, within an hour of arriving in Chantilly…that the real Chantilly cream is not the squirty variety we thought it was, that the correct pronunciation is ‘Shont-ee-ee’ and that Anne de Montmorency, key figure in the château’s history, was not the female variety but a man-Anne.
To get the complete Chantilly picture, you need at least two days to visit: one to visit everything in the ‘Domaine’ – that’s the château (antique art paintings second only to the Louvre), the grounds and the palatial stables (housing the Museum of the Horse, complete with horses) and one to live like a local, taking in some of the lesser known aspects. We’re hanging out with the locals – or Cantiliens as they are known - to find out how to do just that.
Who are the locals?
Only 23 minutes by train from the capital, commuting Cantiliens may identify as Parisians whereas others affirm their loyalty to the region of Hauts de France. Interestingly - and the number of English surnames in the cemetery will attest to it - Chantilly has had a significant Anglophone community for generations, many of them here on account of the horseracing. So, if you spot the English newspapers at the Maison de la Presse, they’re not for visitors but for the locals themselves.
How to shop - like a local – in Chantilly?
It’s not so difficult to get your bearings in Chantilly using rue du Connetable to root you. This is where the locals go about their daily business and it’s where you’ll find the greatest concentration of specialist food shops (charcuterie, cheesemonger, pâtisseries et al). They’re all bustling with locals shunning bigger out-of-town shops (and we know for a fact that some local B&B owners buy their breakfast goodies in Boulangerie Le Galop’Pain - try the baguette praline to find out why).
Don’t walk past la Passion du chocolat. Follow your nose inside the shop where, if you’re not one for a formal guided tour, the novel way to find out about the town’s identity is to work your way through a selection of chocolates, each one a symbol of Chantilly’s heritage. Fresh from making the goods in the artisan chocolaterie upstairs, Monsieur will shake your hand and delight in telling you the stories behind the golf ball, the water droplet, the lace, the horse dropping (!) and best of all, the stolen pink Chantilly diamond, unwittingly found by a Parisian chambermaid biting into an apple found in a hotel room.
Things to do in Chantilly like a local?
The hoards flocking to the château are missing a trick if they don’t make time for the Pavillon de Manse. On Rue des Cascades, this was the engine room of the hydraulic system which operated Chantilly’s Versailles-like fountains and water displays from the 17th century. Its numerous interactive artefacts and models demonstrate the evolution of this industrial heritage and there’s an insight into social history too with the château’s wash-house. There are explanatory notes in English but our top tip is to request - in advance - a tour with Stéphane: with his snippets of information you’ll get much more out of the visit.
Anyone growing up around here does so to a backdrop of thunderous horse-hooves pounding the famous Hippodrome (racecourse) on training and racing high-days. One such is the fashionable Prix de Diane in June, quite the event with a fairground, concert, dancing and of course, lots of champagne. And, on many a summer’s evening, you can blend in with the locals at their favourite secluded hangout - the grassy area known as La petite pelouse (adjacent to Rue du Duc d’Aumale and Avenue de la Libération) for family picnics, gorgeous sunsets and the best view of the château, stables and racecourse.
A particular brand of LACE – black and originally made with bobbins - is another major player in Chantilly’s heritage, influencing contemporary haute couture to this day. Visit the Musée de la Dentelle and don’t miss the quirky Lace-Horses art installation tucked away in its little courtyard.
More things to do – like a local – in Chantilly
We asked the locals where they head to en famille: the nearby medieval town of Senlis is a favourite as are walks around the Etangs de Commelles lakes in Chantilly’s forest.
Where to stay in Chantilly?
Treat yourself to a stay at the exclusive Auberge du Jeu de Paume (about as close as you can sleep to the château) or try Ferme de la Canardière, a stylish boutique B&B two minutes out of town. Thierry and Sabine have a livery of 60 horses (and a cart if you fancy a trot into town!).
Where to eat - Ferme de la Canardière’s recommendations
For lunch, pre-book (well in advance) Le Manoir in sister-town Gouvieux. The dishes are prepared by students taking their formal culinary qualifications, so it’s high on quality and low on price.
In town, try Le Bouchon Gourmand or Brasserie La Place, both excellent contemporary French.
For a convivial locals’ buzz and a wide choice of simple French favourites, head to Le Sylvia on Avenue Maréchal Joffre. It’s had a pub-like ambience since its early days as an English jockey and trainers’ haunt.
Watch: The James Bond film ‘A View to a Kill’ as many scenes are filmed at the château.
Ride: Public transport. Local bus ‘Le Duc’ is free!
Taste: Try the real Chantilly cream at La Capitainerie (the château’s restaurant) or at the Vertugadin restaurant.
Learn: The locals know their history is complex! Drop in to the tourist office for a simplified and visually engaging eight minute film (in English/French).
