Things to do in Amiens - As recommended by the locals
Only 90 minutes by car from Calais or 70 minutes train journey from Paris, discover things to do in Amiens. Amiens is an extremely well-placed spot from which to explore the cultural and historic riches of Northern France.
It’s a particularly popular base for those seeking to pay their respects to the casualties of World War I, plus there’s one other very obvious culture-call: the eye-popping Notre Dame Cathedral. Twice the size of its Parisian namesake, locals come to worship and light candles whilst visitors marvel at the mesmerising stained-glass, poignant Statue of the Weeping Angel and the edifice’s intricately carved façade, described as ‘the Bible in stone’.
To get a fuller picture of the city however, locals recommend you delve a little deeper. The people of Amiens – the Amiénois as they are called – love to shout about the Hortillonnages, a vast area of waterways, small islands and footbridges - within walking distance of the town centre - where locals have been tending their market gardens for generations.
The Amiénois often enjoy this natural cityscape by bike and you can do so too: just hire a city-bike from Vélam (26 pick-up points in town) and head to the towpath. You can go all the way to the mouth of the Somme from here.
From the cathedral, cross the canal and you’re immediately in the Quartier Saint-Leu area, the cobbled, old town with colourfully shuttered houses, bags of character and most importantly, a great choice of places to stop for an apéritif or meal. There’s an all-year-round lively ambience here with restaurants spilling out onto their terraces.
Try La Bistouille on Quai Bélu, a convivial bistro where locals enjoy the ever-popular moules-frites-bière trilogy. They’ve a huge choice on the mussels’ front plus a delicious local beer brewed nearby in the town of Corbie.
Back over the other side of the water, if you need a break from seeing the sights or shopping the big stores on Rue des Trois Cailloux (Galeries Lafayette et al), drop in to nearby L’Improviste for lunch – a popular local haunt, with good-value, home-cooked plats du jour and a focus on French favourites such as scallops, cassoulet and coq au vin.
In the Cathedral area, enjoy dinner at widely recommended Big Ben (despite its name, firmly French!), with three signature dishes on the modern, eclectic menu: Le Big Ben burger, l’Entrecôte d’Aubrac steak and Sole meunière.
The culinary must in Amiens is the Ficelle Picarde, a delicious crêpe dish made with ham, mushrooms and cream. You’ll see it on menus all across town.
You also need to try Amiens’ melt-in-the-mouth macarons. Unlike the rainbow meringue macarons you find at pâtisseries all over France, Amiens’ variety is a softer, golden cakelette made with almonds and honey. For special occasions and gifts, locals head to iconic emporium Jean Trogneux (incidentally belonging to Président Macron’s in-laws) for these individually wrapped delicacies. Try a selection of their sumptuous sweet treats at the café on the cathedral square.
To see where the locals are food shopping, follow the empty shopping bags - noting the magnificent belfry and Hôtel de Ville en route - to the Indoor market at Les Halles, a veritable feast for foodie eyes, with all the High Street ‘eries all under one roof (boulangerie, poissonnerie, boucherie…).
Then, follow your nose to one of the cheese specialists for a pre-purchase dégustation (tasting) of delicious regional cheeses including Maroilles.
Back in the open air, the Hortillonnagesmarket-gardeners, who sell the fruits of their labour at the Market on Place Parmentier every Saturday, also sell directly from their boats in traditional costume once a year in June.
Time your trip
As well as the well-known events on the Amiens calendar - the colourful and convivial Christmas market, the Cathedral’s Son et Lumière shows, the expansive Réderie Fleamarket - niche events are also becoming increasingly popular from the Visites Découvertes themed heritage tours to theatre and circus events at the unique arts space Cirque Jules Verne.
Local's secrets: Sshh!
Join the queue at Maxime artisan bakery and café, in Rue de Noyon, close to the station. It’s dawn-to-dusk busy with Amiénois queuing for their baguettes whilst colleagues and after-school petits-enfants stop to lunch or snack. Try the Paris-Picardie sandwich: a delicious combo of ham and tomme de foin local cheese.
On sunny weekends, blend in with the locals at Parc Saint-Pierre, popular with local families, dog-walkers and cyclists alike. Within walking distance of the town centre, there’s a lake, play-park and frequent activities for families.
If you’re a night-bird, there’s a youthful spirit (plus food, frequent live-music and late-night drinks) at Le Rétroviseur, Place du Don.
For something out of the ordinary, book a traditional waterside chambre d’hôtes (B&B): Comme une Parenthèse or D’une île à l’autre or Ché mouch or La Cour 26.
For a room with a view, there are two sky-high chambres d’hôtes - 360° Tour Perret or Le Panoramiens - at the top of city landmark, the Perret tower.
For something more classic, try hôtel de charme Le Prieuré, very close to the Cathedral.
READ - The novel Birdsong. 39 Boulevard du Cange is the house that inspired Sebastian Faulks in his characterisation of René Azaire.
LISTEN – For maximum insight into the Cathedral’s features, hire an audio-guide in English from the Tourist Office.
SEE – The giant photographic murals of World War I soldiers, adorning walls all over town were installed as a temporary commemoration. However, they’ve been so well-received that many of these poignant reminders look set to stay.
