Champagne isn’t all from Reims. Head to the prestigious vineyards close to Paris and taste the French way of life at off the beaten track restaurants and visits.
Ask anyone anywhere to name a famous French drink and despite stiff competition from a cognac or a claret (maybe an Orangina), the overwhelming majority will opt for champagne, the most prestigious apéritif the world over. You know that it’s only the real deal if it’s from the designated Champagne area but did you know that part of this area falls within our very own Hauts de France region (Northern France)? No? Well, this is particularly good news for fizz fans seeking both lesser-known vineyards and proximity to Paris; you don’t have to go as far as Reims or Epernay to reach those world-famous, UNESCO-listed, nectar-yielding vines.
Enjoy vineyard views and visits on Northern France’s Champagne Route
The vineyards of Northern France are the quintessential landscapes of picture-postcard France: quiet roads, pretty French villages and perfectly aligned vines as far as the eye can see. Sometimes, the only sign of life is a local grape-picker bent double and harvesting the fruits by hand. (Now we know the true meaning of bottoms up!)
Many of the producers on this section of the Champagne Route have their ‘portes ouvertes’ (open doors) so book up for tastings, take-homes and talks. As opposed to the grandes-maisons giants we know from the supermarket shelves, this is the land of the petits-producteurs (small in volume yet big on quality) where real champagne connoisseurs come for prestige and perfection. On your tour, you’ll discover the grapes used, the intricacies of production techniques, what a label tells you about its contents, and the best bit… how to smell and savour. Rest assured, champagne will never taste the same again!
Meet the locals on a vineyard visit – if you don’t speak French, ‘chin-chin’ (cheers) is enough!
Taste UNESCO award winning Champagne Météyer Père et Fils in Trélou sur Marne
It’s no surprise to hear that a vineyard in the hands of the same family for generations has recently won UNESCO’s prestigious Pierre Cheval de l’Embellissement prize for authenticity and tradition. One ancestor lived until he was 107 (and if that’s not good advertising for champagne, we don’t know what is!).
Meet the passionate producers at Champagne Lévêque-Dehan in Barzy sur Marne
Meeting and greeting yet also working the vines themselves, Eric and Nadine impart the true passion of champagne production. You’ll discover that making champagne is an art de vivre, a tradition and a French way of life, not just a means of making a living.
Enjoy champagne in a French garden setting at Joël Michel in Brasles
If you’re a fan of horticulture, this setting – of Japanese and Impressionistic inspiration - provides a stunning backdrop for your champagne tasting.
Locally-recommended places to visit near Northern France’s Champagne Route
Believe it or not, there’s more to local life than clinking fizz flutes! We asked the natives to share their favourite off-the-beaten-track weekend visits:
Mont de Bonneil - Head for these picture-postcard hills overlooking extensive vineyards and pretty French villages.
Bois de Belleau - A beautiful woodland walk with added poignancy on account of the visible traces of a key World War One battle.
Hottée du Diable - Inspiration for famous French sculptress Camille Claudel, this is a walk with a difference on account of the unusual facial forms appearing in the rocks. For the able-bodied only!
Shop like a local in Château Thierry and enjoy its typical French market and local events
The biggest town around here is Château Thierry (only 70 km from Paris and a good base for discovering the local vineyards). Walk the length of Grande Rue for its choice of independents including pâtissier par excellence Au Gourmet. Gawp at the gateaux and try a ‘Fabuleux’ chocolate – featuring the face of legendary local fabler Jean de la Fontaine. You’ll see references to him all over town.
Then, if you’d agree that there’s nothing more French than bread and cheese, go to the Friday market where stalls spill over Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. In the covered section, join the French cheese punters at Fromagerie du Dolloir, ask for a generous slice of local Maroilles cheese (an orange-rinded square with a smooth and strong interior) then go back outside to follow wafts of warm bread to the queue at Maison Moreau boulangerie.
To meet several champagne producers all at once, time your trip to coincide with the ‘Champagne et Vous’ festival taking place in Château Thierry every autumn. Think workshops, entertainment, tastings, demonstrations and of course… opportunities to buy directly from the prestigious petits producteurs.
Seeking savoir-faire? You’ll find French finesse at the locals’ picks of restaurants on the champagne trail
If Foie Gras with gingerbread and blueberries or Scallops in parsley and garlic tickles your tastebuds, eat at restaurant l’Adresse Rive Droite in Château Thierry for the savoir-faire of top French cuisine.
Or, for French finesse and artistic gastronomic creations, Auberge Le Relais in Reuilly Sauvigny (between Château Thierry and Epernay) is one of those rare restaurants managing to combine the inventive, the traditional and the modern. On the cheese course, gawp at the treasures beneath the biggest cheese dome you’re ever likely to see!
In France, a ‘Logis’ is a sure sign of a restaurant serving up quality dishes and the French touch, and the Auberge de l’Omois in Vallées en Champagne is no exception. Everything is locally-sourced and homemade, and there’s a great choice of French favourites and house specialities like Ficelle Maroilles: a cheesey twist on the regional crêpe speciality Ficelle Picarde.
Or you might be tempted by Château de la Marjolaine in Essômes-sur-Marne for long luxury lunching and a stylish champagne bar. With no less than 13 local fizz suppliers, they’ll talk you through their subtle differences. They’ve rooms too if you wish to benefit from the pool, summer terrace and Marne river views: romantic weekend break guaranteed!
More special places to stay on the champagne trail. Our picks of hotels and B&Bs.
For a quirky place to stay – Try the Jardin des Fables B&B, a sumptuously fairytale chambre d’hôte in Château Thierry. Eating with the owners (‘table d’hôte’) is also available on reservation.
For something a little different - What could be more memorable than a night in a treehouse? Search up Le Nid dans les Bruyères in Fère-en-Tardenois.
For a luxury weekend break - It can only be the sumptuous Château de Fère in Fère-en-Tardenois: in the shadow of 12th century castle ruins, this 5 star hotel, spa and restaurant has an unrivalled reputation for French savoir-faire.
For more information, get in touch with the tourist board information
Maison du Tourisme Les Portes de la Champagne
2 Place des États Unis, F-02400 Château-Thierry
Tel: +33 (0)3 23 83 51 14
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Tourist Board Information of Château-Thierry
2 Place des États Unis
F- 02400 Château-Thierry
Tel: +33 3 23 83 51 14
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